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| The start in Boulder, "Inshallah" (8c +) - a good 20 to run without stopping-off point to the chain. |
On the last day in Kalymnos - the first for 5 weeks with good conditions - Pirmin finished his two projects, "Inshallah" (8c +) and "Gora Guta Gutarek" (8c +) within a few hours.
I get up, I better shake on and somehow I do the same: it would therefore not rip out my form today, then when only the cool north wind that moves me in the face and the waves hard on the beach. Because unfortunately I am yesterday succumbed to a little deception. Since I do not own Clock, I have to Hervé oriented head lamp, so as not to completely drown in my pretty compelling reading. A slight idea had already overtaken me, But today he reads quite a while, as I found out that he had long been asleep with the book in his hand. And that has probably been a few hours. So I've finally probably glued to two clock at night, my book on the cheek and now the clock in the morning at eight Aufwanken I realize this but this should be voting at all. The weather, the form of motivation.
two handles in the warm-up route touched and I know that at least in terms of conditions right now everything. Wind, below 20 degrees, low humidity. That sounds not so special, but you have to know what comedy is going on here for five weeks. Not a day! with less than 20 degrees and I also believe no one with less than 60% relative humidity. I could not hold himself and always said the forecast: It will be cooler. It was not and so I drove my truck pretty nervous on the wall. Three times I was here on Kalymnos deleted sure the sails, without even having climbed just one of my two projects ("Inshallah" I had actually just begun, as "Gora ..." was completely wet for two weeks). Then came a reasonably good attempt and I decided to hope. But our time budget at the end, because we do still need to Turkey and at least two weeks for the photos and text there. The final date for departure also: Tomorrow morning.
I'm still not fully on the dam, but the grip gives me courage. So again just brush up the first few meters of the hook and all the handles of the Crux. Then the first attempt of the day. I know I should take pictures here as soon as possible so that the force will provide a "Inshallah". I'm bad in the Crux, am still too nervous, I feel the short night still lie heavy on the precision. But I'm still on vault at the cursed sintering - the key move - to. The train that I was six or seven times, let grease, ever since the wall was like a bar of soap. This time she shes and so sticky and I noticed at once formally at the sinter. And no, he does not slip, so as usually. A cry to me exclaims, almost a growl, I have cursed his train and finally he is in the bag. There are missing the 20 meters to the chain 8. But now I'm awake and thrashing it all away with absolute control and precision. And will participate in the diversion crying and cheering again, but also a bit of that abuse. So many experiments in a 8c +, probably 20 almost! And half of them would one day save me, can northerly wind. Nevertheless, I find it of course, a sigh of relief. The minimum goal is in the bag. But I still want more!
Unfortunately, I messing up my first attempt of the day "Inshallah" fairly if seven trains in front of the chain. Nevertheless, this is the best attempt so far, the itinerary - which requires a full load of maximum endurance - is actually still not a real candidate for carrying climbing. I need better one day training, but I have not. But perhaps it is enough of course so, because I notice in the second and final attempt, I get on well with the under part of the roof. Great Bugkletterei on Slope and holes and also in the following, somewhat lighter hole passage I look good. But not much better than it once was. And already, before the flight was far more than seven trains circuit.
arrived before the last train I feel really heavy but then come the turn. At a sintering bump, which was always a little greasy, I can suddenly shake briefly, sparing the right shoulder, which can give the following serious train a little more gas and passes over me as the previous record. Unfortunately, I am completely at the end, wisely but has now changed my mind on everything, tearing away and I fight my way through the last serious train - a wide cruiser from a knee Klemmer. Only two features are missing. But as it happened, my body refused voltage and I slip out of the targeted lower handle and sit at the Fallen. And I shoot through the Head: No, please do not, you're so close to a perfect climbing day, please do not fall, please! And my body increased my prayer and give me again a few extra grains and in the slides, I can keep a small Dulle and stabilize me and I know that Jaaaaaaaaaaaa! I will clip the chain. And I cheer and scream out my frustration and my joy and my joy then just about the perfect climbing day. And I do not want to stop everything and yes, my voice will sound tomorrow morning on the disease, but that's just too beautiful, too beautiful ...
I get up, I better shake on and somehow I do the same: it would therefore not rip out my form today, then when only the cool north wind that moves me in the face and the waves hard on the beach. Because unfortunately I am yesterday succumbed to a little deception. Since I do not own Clock, I have to Hervé oriented head lamp, so as not to completely drown in my pretty compelling reading. A slight idea had already overtaken me, But today he reads quite a while, as I found out that he had long been asleep with the book in his hand. And that has probably been a few hours. So I've finally probably glued to two clock at night, my book on the cheek and now the clock in the morning at eight Aufwanken I realize this but this should be voting at all. The weather, the form of motivation.
two handles in the warm-up route touched and I know that at least in terms of conditions right now everything. Wind, below 20 degrees, low humidity. That sounds not so special, but you have to know what comedy is going on here for five weeks. Not a day! with less than 20 degrees and I also believe no one with less than 60% relative humidity. I could not hold himself and always said the forecast: It will be cooler. It was not and so I drove my truck pretty nervous on the wall. Three times I was here on Kalymnos deleted sure the sails, without even having climbed just one of my two projects ("Inshallah" I had actually just begun, as "Gora ..." was completely wet for two weeks). Then came a reasonably good attempt and I decided to hope. But our time budget at the end, because we do still need to Turkey and at least two weeks for the photos and text there. The final date for departure also: Tomorrow morning.
I'm still not fully on the dam, but the grip gives me courage. So again just brush up the first few meters of the hook and all the handles of the Crux. Then the first attempt of the day. I know I should take pictures here as soon as possible so that the force will provide a "Inshallah". I'm bad in the Crux, am still too nervous, I feel the short night still lie heavy on the precision. But I'm still on vault at the cursed sintering - the key move - to. The train that I was six or seven times, let grease, ever since the wall was like a bar of soap. This time she shes and so sticky and I noticed at once formally at the sinter. And no, he does not slip, so as usually. A cry to me exclaims, almost a growl, I have cursed his train and finally he is in the bag. There are missing the 20 meters to the chain 8. But now I'm awake and thrashing it all away with absolute control and precision. And will participate in the diversion crying and cheering again, but also a bit of that abuse. So many experiments in a 8c +, probably 20 almost! And half of them would one day save me, can northerly wind. Nevertheless, I find it of course, a sigh of relief. The minimum goal is in the bag. But I still want more!
Unfortunately, I messing up my first attempt of the day "Inshallah" fairly if seven trains in front of the chain. Nevertheless, this is the best attempt so far, the itinerary - which requires a full load of maximum endurance - is actually still not a real candidate for carrying climbing. I need better one day training, but I have not. But perhaps it is enough of course so, because I notice in the second and final attempt, I get on well with the under part of the roof. Great Bugkletterei on Slope and holes and also in the following, somewhat lighter hole passage I look good. But not much better than it once was. And already, before the flight was far more than seven trains circuit.
arrived before the last train I feel really heavy but then come the turn. At a sintering bump, which was always a little greasy, I can suddenly shake briefly, sparing the right shoulder, which can give the following serious train a little more gas and passes over me as the previous record. Unfortunately, I am completely at the end, wisely but has now changed my mind on everything, tearing away and I fight my way through the last serious train - a wide cruiser from a knee Klemmer. Only two features are missing. But as it happened, my body refused voltage and I slip out of the targeted lower handle and sit at the Fallen. And I shoot through the Head: No, please do not, you're so close to a perfect climbing day, please do not fall, please! And my body increased my prayer and give me again a few extra grains and in the slides, I can keep a small Dulle and stabilize me and I know that Jaaaaaaaaaaaa! I will clip the chain. And I cheer and scream out my frustration and my joy and my joy then just about the perfect climbing day. And I do not want to stop everything and yes, my voice will sound tomorrow morning on the disease, but that's just too beautiful, too beautiful ...
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