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| To clip or not to clip. "Devers Royale" introduces consumers tricky tasks. |
It is half past four clock at night. Only half an hour I will hear for the first time the muezzin call to prayer. From a minaret in the valley below. It is the night before the last day of our two weeks Geyikbayiri at Antalya in Turkey and I have brought it up now proud to five climbing days. First, because of the weather, on the other, I had lost faith in my form and decided to climb the same right to quit. In my project, "Devers Royale" (8c +), I was before yesterday only once gone to see if all the rest days should have changed something on the somewhat pathetic presentation of the first days. And they actually had, I was just like high up and therefore had decided after two days of rest to stake everything on the last day before departure. Is today. It's half past four and I'm wide awake.
Just yesterday, we had almost half the night drunk in a cave spent Neanderthals imitations, that night I should recover fully and strongly spit out, but unfortunately I do my friend a hard time and now I think one and only that. I could cry and want to puke! Until the muezzin calls, until the cock crows and until I finally could stand no longer in bed. Eight hours of sleep in two nights, plus a neck problem that I have when it must be like any other time, but not really now have on the neck. I trudge so apathetic to the rock and my thoughts from time to my project, only to see clearly: Today is a day to climb through! But this is anyway not my biggest problem. So what?
"Devers Royale" is the heaviest and the only route 8c + in Geyikbayiri. Their evaluation, it has come, because after a few Yuji Hirayama handle outbreaks last year climbed the first in their present condition and sold as a difficult route in Turkey. Which does not mean that they would be particularly difficult for the degree. As 8c in turn a thick board. If you Bewertungstonus in the area, 8c + is thus correct. Much more interesting are the moves in any case, the complex roof climb with Knieklemmern and overhanging climbing wall combine to find holes and a little maximum strength, endurance and a solid top also still require good maximal strength endurance. In addition to good knowledge of the trains goes ...
The 7a to warm up I get out quite well, but I do not feel lively. The conditions are nothing special, after all, not à la Kalymnos, 25 degrees and so ... But I hope it, I say after a few failed attempts at least to be able to, I would have tried it. I also hope that the lactate flashed me his head. Overall, I hope anyway but rather on being able to connect as quickly as possible with a high percentage of distractions in contact. But that must wait a little longer. Nor do I have moved my ass up only a 7a.
Actually, I should warm up properly, once full Lotte (well, maybe better ¾ Lotte) pump up the arms so that I have after a proper pumping resistance, but somehow I have more desire, I pick up my swatter quickly and go so right in. Below but it will not really applaud the trains go well, go better than last time I reel for the first resting point high to the roof. The knee with knee pad sunk in the rock I first durchschnaufen well. The transition to the next few moves knee Klemmer are not very heavy. And this essential point clamped second rest day really well. Essential, because it still awaits a 8b to the chain. But I can recover better than ever, take out the stress really is and how am I so firmly clamp and also look at the top in the landscape, I also feel that any other power dissipated. What effect such a good, old not so everything can flow! And, while I actually think rather a woman more more than one 8c +, but sometimes even I step back from my beliefs.
If only the phase-out 8b, but I have drawn strength and confidence tanked. And so I do train to train, come good in the Crux, good passing and well back out again, and I know - even if still remain to make some moves - that everything is under control. Only the last five meters take a little bit, because I had never tried. But a 6c me will stop and the non-Onsight. And I make the joy of the climb-through fifth 8c + since October and the rest of frustration rather loud and long air. As in Kalymnos - where I on the last day two 8c + could climb - again a last minute success. And another very unexpected. There are also two nice stats: In four of six of the previously visited areas climbed the hardest route and also top 3 on 8a.nu. Is not worth much, many will say, you must first create anyway. Everything good, everything beautiful! If the world would be ... but only from climbing
Just yesterday, we had almost half the night drunk in a cave spent Neanderthals imitations, that night I should recover fully and strongly spit out, but unfortunately I do my friend a hard time and now I think one and only that. I could cry and want to puke! Until the muezzin calls, until the cock crows and until I finally could stand no longer in bed. Eight hours of sleep in two nights, plus a neck problem that I have when it must be like any other time, but not really now have on the neck. I trudge so apathetic to the rock and my thoughts from time to my project, only to see clearly: Today is a day to climb through! But this is anyway not my biggest problem. So what?
"Devers Royale" is the heaviest and the only route 8c + in Geyikbayiri. Their evaluation, it has come, because after a few Yuji Hirayama handle outbreaks last year climbed the first in their present condition and sold as a difficult route in Turkey. Which does not mean that they would be particularly difficult for the degree. As 8c in turn a thick board. If you Bewertungstonus in the area, 8c + is thus correct. Much more interesting are the moves in any case, the complex roof climb with Knieklemmern and overhanging climbing wall combine to find holes and a little maximum strength, endurance and a solid top also still require good maximal strength endurance. In addition to good knowledge of the trains goes ...
The 7a to warm up I get out quite well, but I do not feel lively. The conditions are nothing special, after all, not à la Kalymnos, 25 degrees and so ... But I hope it, I say after a few failed attempts at least to be able to, I would have tried it. I also hope that the lactate flashed me his head. Overall, I hope anyway but rather on being able to connect as quickly as possible with a high percentage of distractions in contact. But that must wait a little longer. Nor do I have moved my ass up only a 7a.
Actually, I should warm up properly, once full Lotte (well, maybe better ¾ Lotte) pump up the arms so that I have after a proper pumping resistance, but somehow I have more desire, I pick up my swatter quickly and go so right in. Below but it will not really applaud the trains go well, go better than last time I reel for the first resting point high to the roof. The knee with knee pad sunk in the rock I first durchschnaufen well. The transition to the next few moves knee Klemmer are not very heavy. And this essential point clamped second rest day really well. Essential, because it still awaits a 8b to the chain. But I can recover better than ever, take out the stress really is and how am I so firmly clamp and also look at the top in the landscape, I also feel that any other power dissipated. What effect such a good, old not so everything can flow! And, while I actually think rather a woman more more than one 8c +, but sometimes even I step back from my beliefs.
If only the phase-out 8b, but I have drawn strength and confidence tanked. And so I do train to train, come good in the Crux, good passing and well back out again, and I know - even if still remain to make some moves - that everything is under control. Only the last five meters take a little bit, because I had never tried. But a 6c me will stop and the non-Onsight. And I make the joy of the climb-through fifth 8c + since October and the rest of frustration rather loud and long air. As in Kalymnos - where I on the last day two 8c + could climb - again a last minute success. And another very unexpected. There are also two nice stats: In four of six of the previously visited areas climbed the hardest route and also top 3 on 8a.nu. Is not worth much, many will say, you must first create anyway. Everything good, everything beautiful! If the world would be ... but only from climbing
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