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| goes to the crux "Mehw power" (8c +) in a wonderful 8a + on. For bouldering again but quite dangerous. |
For today I've been waiting for. I've been waiting very patiently and I passed the time in other routes, photos taken, drawn a 8c in three attempts over the Glibbergrip the last days. (But I'm also a bit of lists with a special trick, like you used to press three buttons in a row, while the D-pad in a certain Moving direction on the gamepad) had possessions in the knowledge of the weather forecasts these last warm days enjoyed -. Bathe in the river, hang up without being in the sun. Because the forecast was good and simple. Ten degree drop in temperature and wind. And you realize then the same morning fetching water at Les Vignes. Sow cold, fast clouds and fast dry leaves in the streets. A really beautiful fall day in the long empty of tourists and lined with cafes and shops closed Gorges du Tarn. A really beautiful fall day and the remainder of the first of this year - exactly the one on which I have been waiting for.
For now I can blow on the Ankrallen the mini bar at the crux of "Mehw power", according to Sylvain Millet well 8c + and still not addressed. Probably the worst grip, but certainly the worst bar in the whole (holes marked) Gorge. So bad that I am on the first attempt in the route even thought it better (I) could not hold it all. But since not fall and the rock was dug more deeply into the skin of the fingertips. (So about a quarter of the length of the first finger member -. Viewed from the nail off) but then I found a way to keep them to a tiny kick push, but unfortunately some of the disappeared and now is really only a good millimeters. Since one needs a shoe that properly Pressure is concentrated in the tip. But fits all fit, and anyway I would have been announced this morning at breakfast the trapdoor. If so then with time. Would in any case better ...
And it's now autumn, and so I come to confidently and compete with confidence in first attempt and, like the rest of my passage from patients. This is stupid, because to my bar Sch *** I have now only has one weggekrümelten kick. I also realized that the crux to attach to the seven feet 8a + with a moderate point of rest is not easy and it should arrive very fresh, as I just said. The new method must therefore also a better Her tactics. This had been preserved to the maximum power by pumping (warming up) have been designed to avoid, so boulderig warm up and after leaving in place the key not climb out the top 8. But now I have to allow for that even a short 8a + makes the Crux-Boulder in a way, an endurance challenge and it is vitally important at the rest point before coming down to complete. The methodology helps me fortunately the weather with its six degrees and 30 km / h wind speed. For suddenly the bar can hold a little more turned on shoulder, the body can bring a little bit different in position for the gate to the good and you can Einfingerloch helping to avoid even the abgekrümelte kick. And with this grip, the train is not even harder than before. Unfortunately, I have now spent two attempts, including a good session intus Boulder, for a maximum route like this I count myself so no big chances from anymore. For today, of course. Next time they will bow. Such a grip assumed. So hopefully if it is the autumn in the beautiful gorge and he is still a little bit.
is slowly evening, Hannes, who was to film the climb-through extra came with, I give all-clear, but a last attempt I make, of course, has yet to accept the new method, time to test in practice and the new tactic , so I know if I'm warming up the next time in an endurance route or not. It is cool again, hardly more than five degrees, the wind was still fresh and tireless. For a route like this, called such hours cheap. Will we see even know if cheap enough to be counted my maximum strength. The initial moves go smoothly from the hand, and the first small Boulder is only slightly worse than in the first attempt, but that's normal when the power is not at 100%, no reason to hit the same hope in the wind. (It would have pretty far pretty fast in this wind speed, and I would probably never again Found which would deprive me of an important emotion.) Cause I pull the trump card in this experiment, not climbing the hard passages, but when hanging on the long arm at the point of rest before the crux. Both the phenomenal grip, as well as improved by the previous inflation lactate tolerance, it leave me here are pretty comfortable and I feel that I will take the same in a few moments, really fresh to the mini bar catapult to my body from there to the mono and this then I hope to meet, for it is not great, just like a 20 cent piece.
And I push it really fresh on the mini bar. Only I know that from then nothing more. (A kind of retrograde amnesia, which I could have often seen with me and caused me heavy trains through stairs behind nothing more white, and sometimes can not tell exactly where I was at the Out Fighter really like exactly). So I can only remember the flash of thought, as I think Einfingerloch then sure, I should now but the thing really climb out (if the Cruxzug has done this before). And although I am almost running out of juice because I have eaten somehow not enough, the day, I get no severance of the chain.
The whole thing in ten attempts, but in an area that suits me rather well what the conjecture by Sylvain Millet close as correct places. So 8c +, and thus the difficult route of the gorge. (Especially since the 8 c's here are much easier). On a really nice raw autumn day that invites you to climb hard routes, cooking in the open air but has good moves in the bone. And in a route with a name at the start, the meaning of it still applies to air.
For now I can blow on the Ankrallen the mini bar at the crux of "Mehw power", according to Sylvain Millet well 8c + and still not addressed. Probably the worst grip, but certainly the worst bar in the whole (holes marked) Gorge. So bad that I am on the first attempt in the route even thought it better (I) could not hold it all. But since not fall and the rock was dug more deeply into the skin of the fingertips. (So about a quarter of the length of the first finger member -. Viewed from the nail off) but then I found a way to keep them to a tiny kick push, but unfortunately some of the disappeared and now is really only a good millimeters. Since one needs a shoe that properly Pressure is concentrated in the tip. But fits all fit, and anyway I would have been announced this morning at breakfast the trapdoor. If so then with time. Would in any case better ...
And it's now autumn, and so I come to confidently and compete with confidence in first attempt and, like the rest of my passage from patients. This is stupid, because to my bar Sch *** I have now only has one weggekrümelten kick. I also realized that the crux to attach to the seven feet 8a + with a moderate point of rest is not easy and it should arrive very fresh, as I just said. The new method must therefore also a better Her tactics. This had been preserved to the maximum power by pumping (warming up) have been designed to avoid, so boulderig warm up and after leaving in place the key not climb out the top 8. But now I have to allow for that even a short 8a + makes the Crux-Boulder in a way, an endurance challenge and it is vitally important at the rest point before coming down to complete. The methodology helps me fortunately the weather with its six degrees and 30 km / h wind speed. For suddenly the bar can hold a little more turned on shoulder, the body can bring a little bit different in position for the gate to the good and you can Einfingerloch helping to avoid even the abgekrümelte kick. And with this grip, the train is not even harder than before. Unfortunately, I have now spent two attempts, including a good session intus Boulder, for a maximum route like this I count myself so no big chances from anymore. For today, of course. Next time they will bow. Such a grip assumed. So hopefully if it is the autumn in the beautiful gorge and he is still a little bit.
is slowly evening, Hannes, who was to film the climb-through extra came with, I give all-clear, but a last attempt I make, of course, has yet to accept the new method, time to test in practice and the new tactic , so I know if I'm warming up the next time in an endurance route or not. It is cool again, hardly more than five degrees, the wind was still fresh and tireless. For a route like this, called such hours cheap. Will we see even know if cheap enough to be counted my maximum strength. The initial moves go smoothly from the hand, and the first small Boulder is only slightly worse than in the first attempt, but that's normal when the power is not at 100%, no reason to hit the same hope in the wind. (It would have pretty far pretty fast in this wind speed, and I would probably never again Found which would deprive me of an important emotion.) Cause I pull the trump card in this experiment, not climbing the hard passages, but when hanging on the long arm at the point of rest before the crux. Both the phenomenal grip, as well as improved by the previous inflation lactate tolerance, it leave me here are pretty comfortable and I feel that I will take the same in a few moments, really fresh to the mini bar catapult to my body from there to the mono and this then I hope to meet, for it is not great, just like a 20 cent piece.
And I push it really fresh on the mini bar. Only I know that from then nothing more. (A kind of retrograde amnesia, which I could have often seen with me and caused me heavy trains through stairs behind nothing more white, and sometimes can not tell exactly where I was at the Out Fighter really like exactly). So I can only remember the flash of thought, as I think Einfingerloch then sure, I should now but the thing really climb out (if the Cruxzug has done this before). And although I am almost running out of juice because I have eaten somehow not enough, the day, I get no severance of the chain.
The whole thing in ten attempts, but in an area that suits me rather well what the conjecture by Sylvain Millet close as correct places. So 8c +, and thus the difficult route of the gorge. (Especially since the 8 c's here are much easier). On a really nice raw autumn day that invites you to climb hard routes, cooking in the open air but has good moves in the bone. And in a route with a name at the start, the meaning of it still applies to air.
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